The restaurant at the Copenhagen Admiral Hotel
Article added on April 1,
The "white gold" of the Middle Ages, salt, is a product
essential for any human being. It is related to the sea, shipping, travel,
hospitality, cuisine and warehouses. Reasons enough for the Copenhagen
Admiral Hotel to name its new restaurant (the old one was named
"Pinafore"), which opened in early 2003, after this vital
ingredient. SALT offers a light European cuisine with a Danish
touch. The menus at SALT change twice a season and the special SALT menu
every fourteen days.
Design and concept for SALT (restaurant and bar) were elaborated in close
cooperation with London-based Terrence Conran (Conran & Partners), who
had previously designed restaurants in London, Paris, New York and Tokyo.
SALT restaurant with its pure modern design with red and blue chairs,
rectangular chrome mirrors and a partly open kitchen deliberately
contrasts with the also simple but rustic and ancient wooden construction
made of Pomeranian pine beams.
From a four star hotel restaurant, which heavily relies on tourists and
tourist groups from all over the world, one does not except gourmet
cuisine. But that is what chef Casper Vedel offers. He sets
astonishingly high standards in the kitchen. Previously, he successfully
cooked at Søllerød Kro.
A vegetarian dinner at SALT
Tested in 2003
On my day of testing, Casper Vedel was on holiday. Therefore, sous-chef
Christensen Thomas (*1970 in Copenhagen) ruled in the kitchen. He began
his career as a trainee in the Hotel Mercure (1990-94) and then worked in
several restaurants in Copenhagen from 1994-2003, with an interruption in
the summer of 1999, when he cooked in an Italian and fish restaurant in
Newport, Rhode Island. Since November 1991, he works at the Copenhagen
Hotel Admiral. To make it short, Christensen Tomas was an excellent
substitute for head-chef Casper Vedel.
As a vegetarian, I could of course not test fish and seafood, the core of
Danish cuisine. My starter was SALT's tomatsalat with Danish
pickled plum tomatoes with mozzarella and balsamico and a terrine of
slowly baked tomatoes with basil and olive oil. A simple but well composed
dish which already showed the restaurants "philosophy", which
consists of Danish and European cuisine with a twist of Danish kitchen.
Fine, fresh Danish ingredients are used for all dishes.
The most typical Danish alcohol is of course beer, above all the famous
brands Carlsberg or Tuborg. Since I hate beer, I asked for something
special created by SALT and got Splash, a refreshing aperitif with
white port wine and tonic water.
As main vegetarian dishes, spinach, vegetables with many herbs and pasta as well as spinach with pesto and tomatoes were served. It was
light summer cuisine, nothing very elaborate, but everything done with
The desserts were one better than the other. I started with a fine pure caraibe chocolate,
followed by a raspberry
and orange mascarpone on sablé layer with glazed peach and raspberry
sorbet - a delicious, subtle dream. Finally, I tasted a coconut bavaroise with cherries and
crystallized lavender with a granny smith sorbet great, an exquisite and
In short, a gourmet restaurant of this level is very unusual for a four star
hotel mainly frequented by tourists. SALT is excellent to the point that it is worthwhile coming to the
Copenhagen Admiral Hotel just for a dinner.
SALT restaurant. Photo © Copenhagen Hotel Admiral.
SALT. Photo © Copenhagen Hotel Admiral.